The Goot Blog

Yes, we're at it again. Yet another renovation project. Our marriage barely survived the last one, so why not test it again as we slam headlong into our 35-year anniversary two weeks from now? After all, no one's ever accused us of being sane. So yesterday, the very day we finished moving in, and could begin enjoying the tranquillo life we envisioned for ouselves here in Mexico, we were awakened at 8am as the workmen started chipping concrete and unloaded a truckload of rebar, sand and bricks. The plan: Take advantage of the cool breezes and sweeeping views from our roof with a new master suite and outdoor entertainment area. This would give us two full bedrooms, plus a studio/office, allowing us to host several friends/couple/family members at once. Or, if our marriage succumbs to the strain, our house might be easier to sell. We'll keep you posted.

We've been here for two months, almost to the day, and our casita is finally complete. The last items we ordered arrived yesterday and we were able to unpack the last moving boxes. It will take several days to get used to the living room sans cardboard. The place is still fairly spartan, but we like it. It feels like home. And to our complete amazement, we furnished and applianced it -- (is there such a word) -- for just $500 more than we budgeted! I really wanted to lose my old manic self down here, but I kinda hate to think I've lost my old irresponsible self, as well. The welcome mat is now officially out. Hint hint.

It dawned on me (Karen) the other day that there are a couple of questions that keep recurring and maybe it would be a good idea to try to answer them here.... It also dawned on me that sometimes I find myself asking these same questions of and maybe if I write them out it will help me to understand. (If you think of others, let me know.)

1. Why did we move to Mexico?
Answers (in no particular order):

• Low cost of living so we don't have to work for money (some people tell me that's the definition of "retired" but I still have trouble using that word).
• American work ethic burnout
• After living in one place for over 30 years, wanted to try something different.
• Learn a new culture, including language.
• Not be in South Carolina anymore during the summertime.
• Simpler way of life with less belongings, including cars.
• Create a new space together.
• Not be in the U.S. anymore during Bush's presidency.
• Both our children extremely independent and apparently no grandchildren in the near future.
• Easy access to the U.S.
  
• Because we can (relatively healthy and able to walk on cobblestones).

2. Why did we move to San Miguel de Allende?

[San Miguel de Allende is located in the mountainous region of Central Mexico, in the state of Guanajuato. It is located about a 4-hour drive north of Mexico City. Below is a map to help you get a better idea of where San Miguel is located - near where it says "Guanajuato"]

Answers (in no particular order):

• Historical city that tries to protect its Mexican/Spanish culture.
• Artists' colony because of Art Institute established here in 1950.
• Enough Americans and Canadians here to feel comfortable (about 10% of the 100,000 population), but not too gringo-ized.
• "Foreigners" who settle here are generally cool.
• MANY festivals (e.g. Independence Day celebrations last for 6 weeks - that's not an exaggeration). All festivals include many hours of fireworks.
• Many cultural things to do besides go to art galleries and openings - e.g. chamber music concerts, independent films, Global Justice Film Series, live theater, dance concerts, Writers' salas, Yoga classes, live music in many restaurants, many ethnic restaurants (including Italian, Sri-Lankan, Lebanese, French)
• No McDonald's, Burger King or Wendy's
• Homeopathic medicine (and traditional medicine, well-trained doctors),
• High-speed internet available
• Low crime
• Good relations between natives and foreigners
  

3. What do we do all day? (This is a hard one.)
Answers (in no particular order):

• Wait for furniture to be delivered.
• Wait for workers to take care of repairs and improvements.
• Work with architect to plan upstairs bedroom/bathroom/terrace addition (OK, so we're gluttons for punishment)
• Check email/ write to friends and family
• Go to lunch with my one lady friend (who's moving back to Florida in November - bummer!)
• Go to mailbox downtown
• Hassle with SC DMV on the phone because our registration documents were not taken care of properly when we turned in our leased cars
• Keep track of budget in Excel spreadsheet (Hey, we're retired!)
• Go to parties and hopefully meet potential friends
• Go out to eat (see above) - sometimes with other people
• Go to independent films (see above), e.g. Tsotsi which I highly recommend
• Go to live theater (see above), e.g. Love Letters which I highly recommend
• Go to 2 chamber music concerts (you guessed it - see above), e.g. Turtle Island String Quartet (you guessed it) - which I highly recommend
• Go to Brazilian dance/music/cultural performance
• Go to Writers' Sala and hear readings from Alma Luz Villanueva & Alice Denham, a former Playboy Playmate
• Shop for furniture and other household items
• Grocery shop
• Listen for the garbage truck bell so we can take the garbage out
• Drink wine while Mike cooks (some things never change)
• Do laundry (some things never change)
• Talk to friends and family on the phone
• Do the S-word before bed every night (No, not that, I'm talking about Sudoku puzzles which we - especially Mike - have become addicted to)

4. What have we not had time to do yet? (No one has asked this but I want to answer it anyway.)
Answers (you guessed it - in no particular order):

• Take Spanish classes.
• Read more than one book.
• Write in journal.
• Check out books from the public library (which contains the largest collection of English language books in Latin America).
• Take Yoga classes or other body- and mind-altering experiences
• Go to Botanical Gardens
• Explore other Mexican cities
• Go to Global Justice film series
• Join Netflix
  

I'd like to turn y'all onto another Mexican delicacy. It's called Huitlachoche -- which is really close to the name of our street. A coincidence? I think not. Anyway, for the squeamish among you, it's referred to as corn truffle. On menus here, it's more likely to be romanced with the phrase "corn fungus." Botanists in ths States lovingly call it "corn smut." It's apparently a kissin' cousin of the humble mushroom but grows on corn plants. Yes, it looks funky, but it's delicious... and in season right now. We just bought some for the first time and are looking forward to sauteeing a batch with some fresh crema, then wrapping it in a nice crepe. My mouth's watering. Or as my physician friends might say, "exuding saliva."

With Karen gone to Oregon, I went to a Gringo bar, ordered a couple of reposadas and the first burger I've had since I left SC, and watched the 3rd round of the PGA. OK, not the immersion experience I hoped for, but for an hour or so it fed my Chicago-born soul. But the high point of my day (so far), a loud country song piercing through the restaurant chatter: It's Hard To Kiss The Lips At Night That Chew Your Ass Out All Day Long. Oh God, the writer in me ached to have written that lyric. The fact that a lyric like that exists all the proof I need that life is worth living... and for the time being, worth living in San Miguel.

Foodie friends take note. I had this dish last night... again. It's my all-time (so far) San Miguel favorite. It was apparently featured in the wonderful food movie Like Water For Chocolate -- rent it immediately if you haven't already seen it -- and is considered the national dish of Mexico 'cause it's a green poblano chile stuffed with this amazing mixture of spiced ground beef, nuts and dried fruits (picadillo), covered in a white walnut sauce and topped with red pomegranate seeds, representing all the colors of the national flag. I'll treat you to a plate when you come visit. In the meantime, here's a recipe.

http://www.starchefs.com/features/pomegranate/html/recipe_01.shtml

Being a former ad guy, I just had to fall in love with this piece of public "art" in the neighboring town of Guanajuato.

I'm sitting here at my little patio table, sipping on a cold cerveza and checking e-mails, when out of the blue, from over the wall, down the street somewhere, I'm hearing Achy Breaky Heart. How weird is that? No matter how far you travel, you just can't ever get away. Last night we rocked to a group of Mexican musicians doing a Tribute to Stevie Ray Vaughn. Say what you will about American politics (and policies), you gotta love the music!

After over a month of sitting on the tile floor with a folded blanket for padding under the knees and an empty cardboard box for a table, furniture arrived one glorious Friday morning... and now the house feels more like a home.









This is your bedroom:


This is our bedroom:

OK --- here's a new experience we never thought we'd have in Mexico..... eating a suckling pig. And who knew that the ritual included breaking the pig up with a dinner plate and then throwing it (the plate) against the wall??? But here it is in all its glory - and some new friends to boot!

With my brother's recent death and Caine Halter's shocking illness, this song resonated with us. We want to share it with our friends.

Don’t Let Us Get Sick
(Warren Zevon)

Don't let us get sick
Don't let us get old
Don't let us get stupid, all right?
Just make us be brave
And make us play nice
And let us be together tonight

The sky was on fire
When I walked to the mill
To take up the slack in the line
I thought of my friends
And the troubles they've had
To keep me from thinking of mine

Don't let us get sick
Don't let us get old
Don't let us get stupid, all right?
Just make us be brave
And make us play nice
And let us be together tonight

The moon has a face
And it smiles on the lake
And causes the ripples in Time
I'm lucky to be here
With someone I like
Who maketh my spirit to shine

Don't let us get sick
Don't let us get old
Don't let us get stupid, all right?
Just make us be brave
And make us play nice
And let us be together tonight

Some things never change. We're enjoying a Saturday evening "Happy Hour" as Norah Jones fills the casita with sweet sound and fresh-made margaritas fill our heads with sweet buzz. Other things definitely change. Like listening intently for the clanging bell that signals the arrival of the basura (garbage) truck and then joining the neighborhood procession of young and old, Mexicano and Gringo, lugging trash down the block to the waiting men up to their wastes in God-knows-what. Or trying to discern the different horns, bells, honks that differentiate the tortilla lady, the milk guys, the natural gas truck. We're starting to figure it out, but still can't understand why fireworks (sounding more like sticks of dynamite) erupt at all hours, mostly when we're asleep. One new habit we're eagerly embracing: fresh flowers. A handful costs about 50 cents. It's a small thing, but a good thing, taking us one step closer to a state of grace