Tuesday, July 29, 2008

 

Holy Crap!!!

I'll say right up front, I'm sorry I don't have any video. But I was pretty well scared. Last night we had The Storm To End All Storms. A tropical summer downpour on steroids. I've never in my life seen anything like it. And I grew up in the Midwest! We watched the sky remain lit up with pretty much non-stop lightning displays for nearly an hour. It was like something you'd see in a sci-fi movie, right before the alien spaceships land. The wind howled, rain blew horizontally in sheets and nickel sized hail rained down on us. At its peak, our downstairs garden and upstairs terrace were covered in a half inch layer of ice balls. We had to close off our master bedroom, eight feet in from the edge of the roof, to keep rain and sleet from pouring in. This morning, we woke up to soaked rugs, and a mountain of torn up leaves, and we discovered we'd lost a good quarter of our olives, plus a goodly number of not-yet-ripe oranges. Mother nature. Fuck!!!!

Saturday, July 26, 2008

 

You Never Know

The wonderful mystery of old Colonial cities like San Miguel is that every property is walled and gated. In many instances you can't really tell whether you're walking past a 6 million dollar mansion or tin-roofed shack, housing pigs and chickens. (Zoning, right? What a quaint American concept.) Anyway, case in point: We've walked by this nondescript brick wall with a nondescript metal gate several times a week for nearly two years. Another ruin, we figured. Then last weekend, around midnight, high as fucking kites, we came around the corner and were assaulted by loud Ranchero music and raucous laughter. As we passed the (now open) metal gates, we saw a 5-piece brass band on a stage and an area about the size of half a football field filled with 8-top round tables filled with nicely dressed guests and an army of waiters passing hors d'oeuvres butler style. What the...? Unbeknownst to us, this is the apparently the neighborhood Party Place. We stumbled (literally) into a Mexican wedding or Quinceañera (15th birthday) celebration. The San Miguel mysteries never cease...

Saturday, July 19, 2008

 

Alright Guy

This is a fairly lame music video, but the song, by Todd Snider, is one of my all-time favorites. In fact, I've requested Karen to play it, in lieu of creepy organ music, at whatever memorial party she might throw for me once I'm gone. P.S. You're all invited to attend.

Friday, July 18, 2008

 

A Sweet Homage to Old Age

From Garrison Keillor, again. Check it out.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

 

Interesting Research

Since we've been down here in Mexico, a question we asked a lot (and frankly think about a lot) is, "What do the native Mexicans think about you living in their town/country?" Well, yesterday I came across a survey the MUND Group, a Mexico City-based public opinion and market research firm, recently conducted. They point-blank asked a representative sample of Mexicans, "When you see and hear about the following kinds of foreigners are you bothered -- a great deal, some, or not at all?" They asked about (among others) tourists, students, businesspeople, journalists and long-term foreign residents. The results reinforce our core belief that Mexicans, as a general rule, are tolerant and mellow folks. Less than 5% admitted to being bothered a great deal, while another 7% are bothered a little. There were, however, a couple of glaring exceptions: Missionaries of all faiths bother about a quarter of the people surveyed, and foreign police (mostly DEA agents) bother just over 40% of the people. Any wonder we like it down here?

An interesting side note: When asked in focus groups to describe a "mythical" U.S. citizen who might come to their home for dinner, they said that person would arrive late, be large (probably overweight), be dressed casually (in blue), talk loudly and bring a hostess gift of bread, beef or fast food. When asked to describe a mythical Canadian guest, they said that person would be punctual, if not early, wear a (brown) dress or sport coat, be tall and athletic, speak softly, and bring a hostess gift of fresh seafood or maple syrup. [??????]

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

 

A Cautionary Tale of Two Peppers

While at the market Monday, I came across a bin of cute little yellow and orange peppers. Our friend Valerie Hollinger had turned us on to these ultra-sweet little guys, lightly coated with olive oil and oven roasted, when we were back in Greenville. I called Valerie, confirmed her recipe, and threw them in the oven, sure I would delight our dinner guest. When I checked on them 15-20 minutes later, I popped one in my mouth to be sure they were nicely cooked and as delicious as I remembered. Holy shit!!! Three little bites and my mouth erupted in flames, tears poured from my eyes and saliva dribbled down my chin. I guess you foodie friends know what's coming. Failing to pay any attention to the store signage, I'd inadvertently picked up a bunch of Habañeros. A Scoville jump from zero to 100,000+. Long, story short, I spit out what I could and started guzzling the steamed milk I had leftover from an afternoon cappuccino, and chased it with several shots of tequila. The next half hour was pure misery, but thankfully, blister free. I don't even want to tell you about the ensuing twelve hours! Yesterday an always sympathetic Karen was working on learning the Spanish word for Dumbshit.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

 

Hurray for San Miguel

After an exhaustive 3-year application process, this past week UNESCO named San Miguel de Allende and the amazing 18th century shrine in nearby Atotonilco as World Heritage sites. This should provide the city with increased international tourism, important for our local economy, and additional funds for preservation and restoration. One particular benefit is that the city has been hard at work since we moved here placing its unsightly rat's next of telephone, electric and TV cables underground, so San Miguel looks like the Spanish colonial city it once was.

Now Mexico has the 4th highest number of World Heritage sites of any country in the world, and Guanajuato, the state in which we live, is the only Mexican state with two World Heritage cities (Guanajuato being the other). It should come as no surprise to those of you who've visited us here that the community celebrated with a huge fireworks display. In fact, in the application, unlimited fireworks celebrations were specifically sanctioned as "part of our cultural heritage". Ka-booom!!

Friday, July 11, 2008

 

A Must See

Our friend Kate McKenna recently shared this video with us. It's one of the most fascinating, and moving, presentations I've ever seen. It's part of the TED Talks series, which, if you aren't familiar with it, is perhaps the most intellectually stimulating site on the entire Internet. One of my life's wishes, unlikely to ever be realized, is to attend one of the TED conferences. Ah well... Anyway, enjoy!!

Tuesday, July 08, 2008

 

I Love This Place: Part III

San Miguel de Allende is a Spanish colonial city, originally built in the 16th century. It’s known and loved for its salmon-colored, Gaudi-inspired cathedral The Parroquia, its narrow cobblestone streets, its brightly colored stucco walls and ornate doors. Aside from the bus and truck traffic, the town positively exudes charm.

Lately, however, we’ve seen a slow, inexorable march toward the 21st century. As increasing numbers of younger, more affluent visitors from Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey come here for weekend entertainment, the number of minimalist boutique hotels, chic urban lounges and top-flight, chef-driven restaurants have begun to emerge.

This past weekend, we were invited to the grand re-opening of the Z-Club. Located in an obscure industrial back alley just beyond the local glass factory, we were greeted by a beefy phalanx of T-shirt clad bouncers and car jockeys. Once inside, our bodies throbbed to the laid-back, but insistent techno beat. As members of the long-of-tooth tribe, we were among the first ones there, we were able to wander around and get a people-free view of the space. It was a marvel. A long, thin room with elegantly set round tables down the center and a glitzy bar at the rear. Down each side were a series of 10’ x 10’ alcoves, separated by billowing white fabric, containing plush sofas and large coffee tables. The walls were covered with blow-ups of grainy, surreal, black & white photos depicting nude or semi-nude women wearing bizarre masks in rococo settings. The one in our booth featured a somewhat disturbing image of a baby with a snakelike, 2-foot-long penis floating above the reclining masked woman. (I don’t know the artist, but we’re unlikely to have any of his/her work in our home.) To top it all off, a troupe of Cirque de Soleil-esque performers soon emerged and began acrobatically swinging from large rings, trapezes and fabric sheets hanging from the ceiling. As the room filled and the music cranked, they circled the room inviting guests to join them on the now light show infused dance floor. As refugees from Greenville, South Carolina, we were pretty much mesmerized. We sucked down free Bellinis, gobbled up the little baby burgers being passed around on silver trays, and gawked. And then we danced. And then, benumbed by the increasingly loud music and intimidated by the increasingly younger demographic, we bailed around ten. One final memory: In the cab ride home, the radio was playing a Spanish language version of Achy-Breaky Heart. Go figure.


 

I Love This Place: Part II

Today, July 8th, we’re facing a high of 72 degrees Fahrenheit and a low of 54. Sweater weather, just barely. It’s rained, sometimes heavily, the past three evenings. The air is clean and fresh, and in just a matter of days it seems the landscape has transformed from straw to green. Soon, the surrounding desert will be awash in wildflowers. Did I tell you it’s July 8th?


Monday, July 07, 2008

 

Happy Birthday, Charles!


Today one of our favorite people in the world, Charles Marsh, is celebrating his sixty something-th birthday. Among the many reasons we like him is that he's a world-class raconteur, having lived a -- how can I put it -- somewhat adventurous life. So to honor his special day, I'd like to turn y'all on to a story he wrote several years ago that he was kind enough to share with me. Enjoy!

 

Bacon!

As many of our friends here are embracing a vegetarian, fishitarian or outright vegan diet, due to health, environmental or ethical concerns, we have stubbornly remained omnivores (or, more precisely, culinary hedonists.) So be it. And after our thirty year stint in the South, we retain a deep-seated passion for bacon. So I was especially delighted and amused when Karen this morning passed along a recent homage to bacon she found in salon.com. Rather than link to the article itself, I'd like to share some particularly tasty excerpts.

Bacon is rebellion
Americans have a guilty relationship with food, and perhaps no food is more guilt-inducing than bacon -- forbidden by religions, disdained by dietitians and doctors. Loving bacon is like shoving a middle finger in the face of all that is healthy and holy while an unfiltered cigarette smolders between your lips.

We live in a time when even a casual trip to the market is fraught with anxiety. Is it OK to buy the salmon? What are the food miles on this red delicious apple? And there is something comfortingly unambiguous about a thick slab of bacon. It's bad for you. It tastes fantastic. Any questions?

John T. Edge, author and director of the Southern Foodways Alliance, says, "Bacon is a sort of 21st century tattoo, a marker that declares the wearer to be a badass, unbeholden to convention."

It's telling that, among the many celebrity chefs who have embraced bacon (Paula Deen, Bobby Flay, Emeril Lagasse), it is Anthony Bourdain who has become its most unabashed spokesperson, calling bacon the "gateway protein" for its astounding ability to lure vegetarians back to the carnivorous fold.

You can hear a kind of growling swagger in the introduction to Susan Bourette's "Meat, a Love Story," in which she writes: "[Bacon] is like a bitch-slap to all those reedy, high-minded herbivores..."

"Bacon is the cocaine of the '00s," says author Sarah Katherine Lewis, "a visible sign of decadent rebellion."

Bacon is America
The turkey is the unofficial mascot of Americana, the 20-pound plumper we dutifully cook on our most sacred of national holidays. But really, it should be the pig. Bacon is our national meat. The pig is not an elegant animal, but it is smart and resourceful and fated to wallow in mud. A scavenger. A real scrapper.

"I see bacon as a celebration of an American birthright," says John T. Edge. "Four slices of Hormel Black Label, hissing in a cast iron skillet on a Sunday morning. To wear the bacon colors, to sport a bacon tattoo, is to announce your belief in the possibilities of bacon, in the American goodness rendered by a low-on-the-hog meat, transmogrified by smoke and salt."

I truly love my vegetarian friends, and I even think about my health from time to time, but truth is, I'm a bacon boy and always will be. Buen provecho, amigos!


Sunday, July 06, 2008

 

I Love This Place: Part I

In the U.S. we all grew up singing Happy Birthday to You on a person's birthday. Easy to sing for even the most tone-deaf among us, but admittedly a pretty lame tune. Here in Mexico, we're having to learn a new song: Las Mañanitas. First off, it's a way cooler song -- complex and romantic. And second, it comes bundled with a really wonderful tradition. The family of the birthday boy/girl hires a guitar-strumming balladeer to stand outside the bedroom window of said birthday boy/girl and wake him/her up with an early morning serenade. Now that's the way to start off a special day!! (Disclosure: At birthday parties the song is sung before the cake is cut.)

Las Mañanitas Lyrics (Loose English Translation):

These are the morning songs that King David sang.
Because today is your birthday, we're singing them for you.

Wake up, my dear, wake up. Look, it is already dawn.
The birds are already singing and the moon has already set.

How lovely is the morning in which I come to greet you.
We all come with joy and pleasure to congratulate you.

On the day you were born, all the flowers blossomed
and in the baptismal fount the swallows sang.

The morning is coming now, the sun is giving us its light.
Get up this morning, look what has already arisen.


Friday, July 04, 2008

 

Dave Barry

I can't help it; I love Dave Barry. Yesterday was his birthday. To honor him, here are a couple of choice quotes:

"You can only be young once. But you can always be immature."

"Never under any circumstances take a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night."

Thanks, Dave, for providing me with years of uncontrollable, out-loud, snorting, tears-running-down-my face laughter.

Tuesday, July 01, 2008

 

Happy Summer!!

Yesterday I came across this poem via The Writer's Almanac. I thought it might provide a nice intro for the 4th of July weekend, and a fitting tribute to the 2nd anniversary of our move to San Miguel. Enjoy!

The Summer Day

by Mary Oliver

Who made the world?
Who made the swan, and the black bear?
Who made the grasshopper?
This grasshopper, I mean—
the one who has flung herself out of the grass,
the one who is eating sugar out of my hand,
who is moving her jaws back and forth instead of up and down—
who is gazing around with her enormous and complicated eyes.
Now she lifts her pale forearms and thoroughly washes her face.
Now she snaps her wings open, and floats away.
I don't know exactly what a prayer is.
I do know how to pay attention, how to fall down
into the grass, how to kneel down in the grass,
how to be idle and blessed, how to stroll through the fields,
which is what I have been doing all day.
Tell me, what else should I have done?
Doesn't everything die at last, and too soon?
Tell me, what is it you plan to do
with your one wild and precious life?


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