Friday, July 03, 2009

 

A Month (or so) of Bests

We recently returned to San Miguel after a marathon mid-year vacation, which took us to the Southeast, many locales in Central Europe (Germany, Austria, Italy, Slovenia & Croatia) and finally, New York City. As glad as we were to get back home and reconnect with friends here, the trip completely energized us and filled our brains with sights, sounds, smells and feelings we'll undoubtedly be processing for months to come. Best of all, it seems like every several days, we'd encounter something that would prompt one or the other of us to remark, "Man, that was the best _______ I've ever seen/eaten/drunk/etc." With your indulgence, I'd like to share some of those high points with y'all.

Starting in South Carolina, we've always enjoyed the mussels at 39 Rue de Jean in Charleston, and go there most every time we visit the SC coast. This time, however, the mussels in cauliflower cream was exceptionally rich and creamy, far and away the best mussels either of us have ever enjoyed anywhere.

Sticking with food, we were also lucky enough to be in Europe during their relatively short spargel (white asparagus) season, during which many restaurants in Austria and Germany feature special spargel menus. Our one night in Salzburg we stumbled into a randomly chosen pub-restaurant just before closing, and I had an extraordinary pasta dish with spargel cream sauce, which we paired with a perfectly dry, fruity Grüner Veltliner.

On Karen's birthday, where we stayed in a hill-top walled-castle in Croatia, we dined at a nearby 4-star truffle restaurant. (Who knew?) The meal, almost every dish of which contained fresh shavings of black truffle, was indeed memorable, but the highlights were a locally produced sparkling wine (the best non-French champagne-style wine I've ever drunk), and an absolutely perfect risotto, equal to best risotto I ever had in Verona, Italy. FYI: It's probably not available anywhere outside of Istria (the Croatian penisula where we stayed), but you wine lovers ought to keep an eye for the sparkling wine: Misal Prestige Extra Brut made of 70% Chardonnay, 15% Istrian Malvasia and 15% Pinot Noir.

Our other wine highlight was in Germany. Years ago, we scored one bottle of a 1999 Caymus Cabernet at a Red Cross wine auction in Greenville, and our friend Carl has lovingly stored it for us in his climate-controlled wine cellar. We decided to share it with our German hosts, who have a nice selction of French bourdeaux wines in their cellar. What a treat! The Caymus totally lived up to its reputation and was without a doubt the best wine I've ever bought with my own money. (And truth be told, the bordeeaux wines seemed kind of watered-down by comparison.)

While our entire European trip was fueled with lots of doble espressos, cappucinos and lattes, at all hours of the day and night, the best coffee I had was in another place we chose for a late lunch, almost by accident, a faux-French bistro in Hamburg, Germany. It was like a Turkish coffee and had me so wired I could barely sit in the car during our ride back to Fallingbostel.

We got lucky, too, the one night we spent in Prague. We ventured outside the central tourist area, and with the help of several friendly strnagers, managed to find a small and surprisingly contemporary restaurant called Perpetuum. Their claim to fame? Duck. Oh my God! While every dish we ordered was to die for, the appetizer was beyond outrageous -- a combo plate featuring an insanely rich, creamy duck liver paté with forest fruit; slices of smoked duck breast with onion ginger confit; and a melt-in-your-mouth foie gras mousse on a tartare of apricot dressed with pear chips. Yum!

New York, as you might expect, yielded the most culinary highlights of the trip. Dustin, benefiting from his stint at Time Out New York, consistently chose wonderful little gems for us to try. In Socarrat, a Spanish place so small it only had room for one long communal table running the entire length of the restaurant, they served the best paellas I've ever tasted -- nothing we had in Spain could even compare. And Soto, a tiny, hidden-away Greenwich Village gem, completely redefined sushi for me. We ordered the chef's tasting menu, called an omakase, and course after course, were blown away. I've always had a huge weakness for foie gras, but the fresh uni (sea urchin) they made that love affair seem cheap and shabby.

While we were lucky enough to stay with friends most everywhere we visited -- (starting with Larry & Pam DeMeyers' "any sane B&B owner would kill for it" guest room in Augusta, GA) -- we lucked into several hotel bargains during our European travels. Fleming's Hotel, just a block from the main train station in Munich, was maybe the cleanest, nicest (if small) hotel room I've ever booked, and through a deal on Expedia only cost us about $90USD. Check them out next time you're in Europe.

Slovenia turned out to be the best vacation surprise. The town of Lubjiana, was a total delight. And our trek through their unspoiled mountain region (Slovenian Alps??) was breathtaking. Vienna and Graz, in Austria, ran a close second in the Delightful Surprises category. Both vibrant, alive, 21st century communities cloaked in stately 17th-19th architecture. Then there was Lüneborg, Germany, where Johanna our erstwhile foreign exchange student attends college. It was a center for all the medeivel guilds and was unlike anyplace we've ever been.

Lastly, we had the great good fortune to attend the best barroom concert ever -- a memorial concert for Duane Jarvis, a talented and obviously much-loved guitarist who recently succumbed to cancer at age 51. We just happened to spending Memorial Day weekend with friends outside of Nashville, who just happened to get a call from John Prine, (who was playing), inviting them to attend. Mizzy and I just tagged along. We hadn't heard of many of musicians who played that night, but every one of them was great. And the cool thing was, the entire audience (except for me and Miz) were musicians and music-industry insiders. What a treat to watch musicians make music just for and with each other. I uploaded one of my favorite numbers, sung by the amazing Rosie Flores and an all-star back-up band, to give y'all sense of what it was like.




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